There are some basics to getting dressed, and they're not difficult, but some people really do need a little help with this. The essence to getting dressed is being appropriate to the occasion. Getting dressed isn't necessarily about looking good. It's about looking appropriate. Most guys look good in a tuxedo, but are you going to wear a tuxedo to a trip to the amusement park? For guys, getting dressed is marvelously easy, because there isn't much to men's wardrobes, and I can offer no insight into ladies' fashion. So here you go, how to dress yourself if you're a man.
The very basics
I really shouldn't have to mention these, but just in case...
- Make sure your clothing is clean - It is acceptable to 'recycle' suits, coats, blazers, even pants. However, nothing may be so recycled if it is stained, soiled, or smells. Make sure all of your clothing is clean and neat.
- Make sure you are clean - You should bathe regularly. Make sure that you yourself are clean before going to any function or event, or even before you step out the door in the morning. As a courtesy to any lady you are taking out for an evening, you should shower before your date. As I tell people, there are only 3 times I shower: at night before bed, after going to the gym, and before a date.
- Good grooming - I can't believe I'm going to write this, but here goes. Comb your hair, brush your teeth, wash your face, shave, trim your nails, and if you have hair coming out of places that it shouldn't (ears, nose, back hair migrating over the collar of your shirt) then please take care of it. Make sure your breath is acceptable.
- Cologne & aftershave - You should never use too much fragrance. The rule of thumb for fragrance is that you should have to be intimately close to smell it. So if someone smells your cologne and they're not hugging you, kissing you, dancing with you, or otherwise very close to you, you have put on too much. This applies to ladies as well. Unless you live in a century without indoor plumbing, you should not use fragrance to mask body odor. If you have a lot of body odor, you need a shower.
Levels of attire
When you are invited to an occasion, the level of attire is often specified. You should dress to this level of attire, and not under or over it. Often, people think that underdressing is worse than overdressing. Really, both can be offensive. Try to keep to the level of attire specified. It should go without saying that a collared shirt is required for nearly all levels of attire. So if I do not specify, you should wear a collared shirt. No matter the level of attire, your leather and metal should always match. That means that if you're wearing brown shoes, then it's brown belt and brown wristband. Similarly, silver belt buckle, silver watch, etc.
- Formal 'white tie' - You will probably never attend a white tie event in your lifetime. It is the most formal event possible. It is, essentially, dressing for royalty. For men, this involves wearing a black tailcoat and slacks, a white pique formal shirt, a white bow tie, white pique vest, and white gloves. For women, this means a floor length gown. Nothing less. There is no maybe or hedging with white tie affairs. If you should ever watch a period piece from 19th century England, you will understand what I'm talking about. Technically, this is the only truly formal event.
- Formal 'black tie' - A black tie event is one where a tuxedo should be worn. A tuxedo should always be black. The bow tie you wear may be black, but does not have to be. Formal occasions that are black tie are typically banquets, weddings, receptions, ceremonies, etc. If you wish to be technical, a black tie event is actually semi-formal, since white tie is formal. In American etiquette, however, formal has come to mean a black tie event. If the event is 'black tie preferred' you may wear a black suit, but you should have worn a tuxedo. If there is no specification, you will be required to wear a tuxedo. Sometimes, people will wear a white dinner jacket with black slacks. I'm not very sure about that. I do know however that white dinner jackets follow the white rule: Memorial Day to Labor Day only.
- Semi-formal - For a man, semi-formal means that a suit should be worn. The color and style of the suit depend upon the occasion. I'll address that later. You should not wear a tuxedo to a semi-formal event, and you should not wear a blazer without matching slacks. Semi-formal dictates that a matching suit should be worn.
- Business - The only golden rules for business attire is tie and coat. A blazer is sufficient. Think professional. Otherwise, you should dress to the level of your colleagues. If you're a vice-president at some bank, business attire probably means matching suits. If you're a doctor, business attire is usually just a shirt and tie worn under a lab coat. As an aside, a lab coat should only be worn when seeing patients. It is not acceptable to wear your lab coat at any other time. Sweaters enter into the picture, but are very hazy as to their proper place.
- Casual dress - A sort of odd category which isn't that casual. It is, essentially, business attire without the tie.
- Business casual - You'd think that business casual would be business without the tie, but again, there aren't a lot of rules for business casual. You should dress to the level of your colleagues. Each business will usually specify what is allowable attire for business casual. It may range from collared shirt and slacks all the way down to a golf shirt and jeans.
- Casual - No tie is required. A button-down shirt is not necessary, although still acceptable. Casual includes golf shirts, v necks, and some non-collar styled shirts. T-shirts are not permissible. Khakis are the hallmark of casual attire.
- Informal - I have become aware of the fact that informal is a very abused term for attire. Most people understand informal to mean jeans and t-shirts. However, it may also mean anything up to and including sport coat, tie, and slacks. I think the rule of thumb should be with informal, dress to the occasion. Keep in mind, it is never acceptable to wear sleeveless shirts or shorts to any event that actually required an invitation to be printed. Please exercise your judgement.
The basics of suits
There is more to a suit than simply knowing when you should wear one. All men should have two suits of different color. Part of wearing a suit is knowing what color to wear, and what to wear with your suit.
- Black suits - A black suit implies a level of formality that is inappropriate in nearly all settings. Thus, black suits are for weddings and funerals. There are some black tie events where a black suit will suffice. Otherwise, your black suit should stay in the closet until someone dies or gets married. Only black shoes and black leather should be worn with a black suit.
- Navy suits - Navy suits are versatile and may be worn to any semi-formal occasion. It is the standard color for an interview. Every man should have a navy suit. Brown shoes go with a navy suit.
- Charcoal suits - Charcoal (or grey) is bar none the most versatile suit color. A dark charcoal can pass for black at a funeral, but is also a mainstay for interviews, business functions, and any semi-formal event. A charcoal suit is essential. Lighter greys are not the same. As the suit gets lighter, it no longer has the utility of charcoal. Black shoes usually go with charcoal, but you could get away with brown probably.
- Light colors - Tans, light greys, and other lighter colors are sometimes referred to as summer suits. This is because the only time it's ever really acceptable to wear them is in the summertime. Light suits may be worn for business and for semi-formal occasions, but should not be worn to any interview or professional event.
- Patterned suits - Most suits have subtle patterns, like pinstripes. Some suits have very obvious patterns. These suits require a lot of judgement as to the occasion. This is definitely a bad idea for professional events and interviews.
- For interviews - The rules are simple. Navy or charcoal suit, white or blue shirt. Don't wear black or red. Your attire should make you look as professional as possible.
- Single versus double-breasted - Alright, apparently I've been wrong about this for most of my life, but live and learn. Single breasted suits are common and require very little fashion knowledge. Double breasted suits are more formal. A double breasted coat will fill out your chest, so if you're very thin, you should avoid these (you'll look like a little boy in daddy's jacket), and if you're protuberent, you should avoid these as well (it'll accentuate your girth). That being said, there are things to remember. When seated, a coat should always be open, regardless of single or double breasted. When standing, single breasted jackets may be worn open or closed, but a double-breasted jacket should always be closed.
- Buttoning - Apparently, I've been wrong on this matter for most of my life as well. A double breasted coat should always be closed. They say that you should only use the top button, but since the buttons are hidden anyway, I don't think it really matters. With single breasted coats, there are two-button and three-button closures. With two button, only button the top button. With three-button, you may button the top or the middle or the top two buttons. It should go without saying that both the single versus double breasted, and the buttoning etiquette apply to all coats (EG blazers, sports coats), not just suit coats.
- Suit etiquette - Basics of wearing a suit. If you are seated, your suit coat should always be open. It is not acceptable to take off your suit coat until you are to be seated for an extended period of time, like for a meal, or in your office, etc. If you wish to take your suit coat off in company, it is polite to ask permission (EG - Do you mind if I take my coat off?). Don't play with your suit. You should always carry tissues or a clean handkerchief in your suit coat. Over your suit, you should wear either a trench coat or overcoat as the weather dictates. You should wear your suit coat underneath. You should always hang your suit coat, even if only over the back of your chair.
Loose ends
- Tie knots - The two common tie knots are the Four-in-Hand and the Half-Windsor. With a suit, since the suit pants tend to sit higher, you may opt for a full Windsor knot. The goal for a tie knot is one with sufficient size and with a pleasant midline dimple.
- Belts - Beyond simply the color, there are styles to belts that should be addressed. When dressing nicely, such as for a semi-formal event, you should wear a leather belt. Do not wear a braided leather belt, which was a rather popular item from the Gap for a while. Unless you're from Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Texas, Oklahoma, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana, Nebraska, Kansas, or either Dakota, you should not wear a large metal belt buckle, unless you actually happen to be a cowboy.
- Bolo ties, ascots, and bow ties - A bolo tie is one of those cord ties that secure with a decorative buckle. Unless you're from a large metal belt buckle state (or a cowboy), you should not wear a bolo tie. In regards to ascots, there's just about no situation where you can wear an ascot. Bow ties should be worn with a tuxedo, and may be worn with a suit or with a blazer, but I'd advise against it. It's a tough look to pull off.
- Smoking jackets - If you have a smoking jacket, you may wear an ascot with it. If you don't know what a smoking jacket is, you're not missing out on anything. It's much like the silk robes that Hugh Hefner wears, if he's not actually wearing a smoking jacket. If you don't know what an ascot is, it's basically a piece of cloth loosely tied around the neck. It's neckwear like a tie, but in no way formal.